Today we left Estella and headed to Los Arcos.
Estella (Spanish) or Lizarra (‘ash tree’ in Basque) was founded around the year 1090 by Sancho Garcés I, monarch of Pamplona and Aragón. At an altitude of 421 meters and surrounded by mountains such as Montejurra, Peñaguda, Cruz de los Castillo and Belástegui, the city is so hidden that there is a saying that Estella cannot be seen until actually getting there. These surrounding mountains also soften its climate, sheltering it from the wind.
Today was a steady uphill walk for the first half and as we climbed up out of Estella, through Ayegui, we passed the Irache winery, the Benedictine Irache Monastery (8th century) and the Museum of Wine (much more modern!).
Onwards and upwards – more fabulous scenery, vines, fields of wheat and so many wild poppies and distant views of mountains. The sun was shining and life was good!
A little more climbing and then we were as high as we were going to get today at Villamayor de Monjardin, where we could see San Esteban de Deyo, also called the Castillo de Monjardín. This is a ruined castle (where only the walls remain) on a hill overlooking the town which lies at an elevation of 890 metres. The castle has a Roman foundation, but was repeatedly rebuilt over the centuries. It was one of the last fortresses of the Bani Qasi, the local Muslim dynasty, before it was taken by King Sancho I of Navarre in 914.
Downhill all the rest of the way, including many flat sections, to Los Arcos. Still more vineyards and wheat fields with new mountains appearing on the horizon. In the distance we could see the Basilica of San Gregorio Ostiense on the Alto de Piñalba. The Basilica is an outstanding Baroque-style construction and is dedicated to Saint Gregory Ostiense, who was bishop of Ostia in Italy and who died in the nearby city of Logroño in 1044.
A few more kilometres of walking through the farmlands, and passing the multitudes of Camino walkers, we came to the town of Los Arcos. It was a scene we had become familiar with – narrow streets with pretty houses, a town square and a huge church.
Rather than go straight to our hotel, we had a look inside this magnificent church – Iglesia de Santa Maria de Los Arcos. The church originally dates from the 12th century, as a Romanesque church that in 1175 was one of the largest on the Camino de Santiago, and has undergone successive transformations up until the middle of the Baroque period. The organ was built in 1760-61 (as recorded in the parish archive) by Lucas de Tarazona, an organ maker from LerÃn for 5,600 reales.
Tomorrow we head to Logrońo (and Rioja wine country).
