Today we left Viana do Castelo and headed to Vila Praia da Ãncora. The port in Viana do Castelo played an important role in the city’s development. In the 15th century, it was on the trade routes between the Mediterranean and the North Atlantic, when textiles, fruits, wood and iron were headed south while salt and agricultural products were northbound and the city was an important supplier of textiles to the newly established colonies in Madeira and the Azores.
Rather than following the traditional Camino path we opted to go “A Costa” and walk up the coastal camino as far as possible. As we walked towards the coast, the sun was out but thankfully not too hot early in the day. We came to the Igreja de Nossa Senhora de Agonia (aka Chapel of our Lady of the Agony), built around 1750, and popped in for a look and a stamp in our pilgrim’s passport.
Walking beside the sea, looking back the hill with monastery and church on top, looked quite moody but the clouds stayed put and didn’t disturb our journey. The shore was very rocky, and with the tide quite far out, was completely different to previous days beaches.
We walked past the Areosa Fort, built during the War of Restoration of Portuguese Independence (1640-1668), this was one of three similar forts built along the coast between Caminha and Viana do Castelo with the aim of strengthening the defence of the Atlantic coast of Alto Minho which was vulnerable to possible attacks by pirates or the Spanish navy. We also passed a handful of old Moinhos de Vento (windmill) as we continued northwards.
Our favourite boardwalk came back for a short while – this could do with some maintenance though as it was not only bound but also very wobbly. The seashore was now back to the familiar sandy beaches and it was warm enough for little lizards to start wandering out onto the footpath. We left the coast here and started uphill into the town of Montedor. Visible from quite a distance was the Farol de Montedor – it is the northernmost lighthouse in Portugal and was opened on 20 March 1910.
It’s wonderful how, in a short distance, the scenery goes from the coast, through a village and then up into the green hills. After some meandering uphill and along wooded paths we came to a quite delightful cafe with seating arranged throughout the garden and some in the shade beside a rapid stream. The homemade lemonade and tarts were commensurate with the surroundings.
We always seem to hit a hilll climb straight after some food and this was no exception. Not as steep to as long as yesterday but in the heat this was still an effort to get to the highest point of the day. Periodic views of the sea in the distance confirmed just what a beautiful area this is. At the foot of the hill was a strange curved bridge where the water running under it was crystal clear.
A bit more boardwalk as we walked past a wetland area and then we were into the seaside resort of Vila Praia de Ãncora and its beautiful sandy beach.
As the room wasn’t ready yet (we walk too fast !) we found a local restaurant for a cold beer and some fresh sardines before heading down to the beach for a quick paddle. The hotel is very nice, only 10 rooms and only a few years old – the pool a definite bonus as well.
Tomorrow we say goodbye to Portugal and hello to Spain as we head to A Guarda.
