Today we walked from Pontevedra to Caldas De Reis. A local legend relates the foundation of Pontevedra to Teucer, hero of the Trojan War, a legend which was reinforced with the suspicion that Greek traders might have arrived to the Rias Baixas area in ancient times. However, historians and archaeologists tend to agree that the initial settlement was probably formed during the integration of Gallaecia (old Galicia) into the Roman Empire in roughly the 1st century BC. The current name of the city is a Latin composite, derived from Pons/Pontis (bridge) and Veteris/Vetera (old) giving “the old bridge”, in reference to the old Roman bridge across Lérez River.
The town itself was deserted as we left this morning, in complete contrast to the full streets, bars, cafes and restaurants of last night. We crossed the Ria Lérez via the Puente del Burgo as we headed up and out of town.
Our walk then took alongside the railway line for a while and then through another wooded area before we passed by a local cemetery and the Parroquia de Santa Maria (parish church).
The scenery was constantly changing as we continued on past newly planted fields, areas of vines and back onto woodland tracks with many streams running across them until we reached the railway again.
More newly sown fields (probably corn) and fields of vines. Its early in the season but was nice to see the baby grapes enjoying the sun that had recently broken out from behind the clouds that had been present all morning.
We passed the Igrexa de Santa Maria de Caldas de Reis, but didn’t stop as they were just finishing Saturday mass, on our way into the town. After crossing the Rio Umia we came to our endpoint for the day – the Parroquia de Sante Tomas Becket. In 1167, English Archbishop Thomas Becket passed through Caldas de Reis, on the Camino de Santiago before being assassinated in December 1170, in the crypt of Canterbury Cathedral. In 1167, English Archbishop Thomas Becket passed through Caldas de Reis, on the Camino de Santiago. In December 1170, in the crypt of Canterbury Cathedral, he was assassinated by four English knights, who believed they were fulfilling the wishes of King Henry II. He was canonised in 1173 by Pope Alexander III.
After a freshen up at the hotel (calling basic would be a compliment) and some lunch we went and found the Lavadorio Publico, an old public laundry heated by the thermal waters of the area. It was pretty hot but really nice and soothing on the feet. The bottom was covered in blackish debris – couldn’t tell if it was just old leaves and other dirt or the dead skin from the thousands of pilgrims who bathe their feet here. Tomorrow we head to Padron on our penultimate day before Santiago.
