After a nice rest day in Santiago de Compostela, we started out in the Camino Fisterra – a journey to Finisterre on the Atlantic Coast, that ancient pilgrims called “The end of the world”. But first a short precis of the legend of how Saint James came to be buried in Santiago de Compostela. Medieval sources from the late 8th century asserted that James had answered Jesus’s call that his apostles should spread the word of God as widely as possible. James chose or was assigned to travel to the Iberian Peninsula. On his way back to the Holy Land, James stopped at Caesar Augusta (modern Zaragoza). There, he built a church on the banks of the River Ebro following instructions from the Virgin Mary. After arriving back in the Holy Land, James incurred the wrath of Herod Agrippa and was beheaded in Jerusalem in 44 AD on the orders of Herod Agrippa. Tradition has it that the remains and detached head were recovered by two of James’s disciples who took them in a boat which, although having no rudder, oars, sails or even sailors, miraculously carried its precious cargo along the Mediterranean, through the Straits of Gibraltar and up along the coast of modern Portugal to Galicia and Padrón. After travelling to the kingdom of Queen Lupa who set tests for the disciples if they were to bury the apostle in her territory. For example they had to pacify two wild bulls and were so successful that Lupa converted to Christianity and bequeathed her palace as a burial place for James’s body.
Leaving a bit earlier than usual due to the heat (and promising ourselves to walk a bit slower than normal) we headed off through the Parque de Almeda, past the Igrexa de Santa Susana which seemed to be in disrepair and closed, the Estatua de Rosalía de Castro and the Balaustrada do Parque da Alameda with lovely views of the route ahead.
It was warming up by this stage but we had periods of shade under the trees as well as sunshine to the temperature was more tolerable. Just into the woods and we passed a derelict building that was being smartly repaired with modern materials. As we emerged from the woods we could see a great view back to Santiago Cathedral on the skyline.
We then spent a while walking through nice shaded woods and baking hot roads with great views and started our main descent through the village of Roxos.
As well as the views all around us there were lovely displays of flowers outside lots of houses. We then started the big climb of the day – we knew it would be tough by the sign warning cyclists of a 10% gradient for the next few kilometres. Had the weather been cooler we probably would have charged straight up it, but our steady pace meant we arrived at the top soaked but not as out of breath on some climbs.
Obviously every ascent has a descent but this was a lot more gentle and shorter this time and we came to the charming hamlet go A Ponte Maceira and stopped for a cold drink overlooking the Rio Tambre and the pier. Getting back on our feet we crossed the medieval bridge, built in the 12th century, that served as a crucial connection between Santiago de Compostela and Finisterre.
Just a few more kilometres and we walked into Negreira. The town welcome sign is a status depicting the two wild bulls from the Saint James legend. Tomorrow we have a long and hilly walk to Olviera.
