We stayed at the Hotel Akerreta, originally a farmhouse called Sastrearena, which is a typical Basque caserio (farmhouse) from the Pyrenees region. It features preserved elements like a Pyrenees-style kitchen, bread oven, and massive oak beams, earning recognition by the Príncipe de Viana Institute for its historical and architectural value.
I had the same bedroom as 3 years ago, which was functional and comfortable, and we all enjoyed relaxing in the sitting room and eating home cooked dinner in the dining room. The view from my window was of the local farmlands – all in all a lovely place to stay.
We started off down a reasonably steep rough stone path but this evened out into a nice woodland path alongside the River Agra which, in the shallower stretches, was fast running due to the recent rains.
We then passed a water trough known as the “Source Irotyz” which has always been used to water the local farmers herds. Apparently women were not allowed to do the laundry here, as it would contaminate the water for the herds, so they went either to the nearby stream Leiungo Erreka or the river Ituragaitz (which was preferred in winter due to the warmer water).
We then met a nun, who was sitting in her car, who told us we should go up a sharp hill to see the local church. She said this was the original way of the Camino anyway and not the modern manufactured route (in that local area). This is the Church of Saint Stephen, which dates back to the 13th century. We climbed the (very narrow) 55 steps to the top of the bell tower and rang the bell a couple of times – very loud but sonorous – the bell is reputed to be the oldest in the entire Navarra region.
We then took a section of path called the Camino S. Esteban for about 30 minutes until we rejoined the main track. Soon after we were in an urban area passing through a couple of towns until we entered, through the drawbridge, into the city of Pamplona.
We enjoyed a coffee and bocadillo / tortilla in the main square before heading to check in at our hotel. Then we spent the afternoon wandering around Pamplona, taking in the Plaza de Toros (bullring) and the Cuidadela de Pamplona (a renaissance fortress from the sixteenth century) as well as the various streets and larger buildings.
Tomorrow is back to climbing up and down hills as we head to Puente La Reine.
