We stayed at the Hotel Domus Oncinae, not sure of the star rating but, compared to previous hotels, probably a 3 star. Comfortable rooms and beds and a very nice dinner in the restaurant.
My room opened onto the courtyard so not much of a view! Our taxi picked us up and dropped us back to Villar de Mazarife to restart our walk. This was the last taxi transfer planned for this walk. The weather forecast was for no wind, clear skies and 28c by mid afternoon. We started out on a very straight road, that lasted over 6km before a bend, between fields of crops.
Between the road and the crops was an irrigation ditch, full of algae and frogs of all sizes. At times all the various croaks – loud, soft, deep, rapid, etc. came together to make a frightful din. We crossed a river and then back on the same straight road for another few kilometres. By this stage the sun was warming up nicely – we passed very few pilgrims and assumed most had started really early to avoid the heat.
At roughly the halfway point we walked into Hospital de Orbigo via the medieval bridge over the River Orbigo and over the jousting field. On the way into the town, and from the bridge, we spotted numerous white storks. These usually migrate to sub-Saharan Africa for the winter, though many now stay in Spain or move only as far as Morocco because of abundant food and milder conditions. They often do return to the same nest site year after year, but not every bird does, and some pairs change nests or mates.
What followed was a long, dusty and stoney path, with no shade, that climbed and descended with regularity. At the very top was a cross that marked the beginning of the descent into Astorga. By now it was close to 28c and we were pretty fatigued.
After checking into the hotel, and a quick nap, it was time for an ice cream and a quick tour of the cathedral. The bell tower was open, so up we went, 125 stairs each way, to get a great view of Astorga and also of the Bishops Palace (designed by Gaudi). Today was a tough day – distance and heat – but due to the judicious use of sun cream, wide brimmed hats and sufficient hydration we all arrived unburnt and in good shape.
