Four go to Hamilton

Today we left Abington and headed to Hamilton.

Today we had Gareth and Terry walking with us and John (St Andrew’s Hospice) kindly moved our bags forward to Hamilton.

We left Abington Services and headed out onto the continuation of yesterday’s B7076 but now upgraded to the B7078. A bit of a brisk morning which was perfect for walking. Shortly after we left we passed our 900 km milestone and had now done over 1,000,000 steps.

We walked up the bicycle path and reminisced about the last time we walked this path the sun had long set and the temperature had dropped. Unfortunately lots of fly tipping along the path which is a real shame in such a beautiful place.

There was an excellent cycle path as we walked to Lesmahagow and then Kirkmuirhill we were surprised by a couple of rain showers, thankfully not too heavy but got us back into practice for walking in scotland – coat on, coat off, coat on ….

We then walked into Larkhall where we stopped in a deli/cafe for a quick sandwich. It was such a nice difference to the pre-packaged “meal deals’ we have been having for lunch over the past weeks. Then past the 13 blocks of flats in nearby Muirhouse, across Avon Water (another subsidiary or the River Clyde) and into Hamilton.

The sun was out and Hamilton was quite quiet, presumably as it was Sunday afternoon, with the old buildings looking quite resplendent. Today was a nice and flat walk, and tomorrow we head through Glasgow on our way to Drymen.

Chalk and cheese

Today we left Moffat and headed to Abington

Today we had no-one walking with us and Jon was helping with the logistics.

As we left Kirkpatrick-Juxta, having been dropped off where we stopped yesterday, the sun was rising and some of the clouds in the sky were quite spectacular. Today was another day on a single road and for a goodly period this morning the last picture above was pretty much our only view.

The A74 was originally the only dual-carriageway route from Scotland to England. It was a low-standard dual carriageway that carried large volumes of traffic while having many intersections with both other major roads as well as farm tracks. It also had bus stops and houses along its length. A new motorway – A74(M) – was constructed parallel to the existing road, leaving the old road to be used as a local access road and one of the carriageways turned into a cycle-path. Today it is amazing to think that all the traffic on the six-lane motorway just a few metres away was once carried upon the empty tarmac that is now the B7076.

With the Mainline Railway on one side and the A74(M) on the other, the valley is home to a large number of streams that eventually merge into the River Clyde.

As we progressed towards Crawford, where we would take a few minutes rest and have our lunch, the valley opened up with rolling hills on either side, plenty of wind turbines, and the River Clyde running through. There was even an interesting shaped forest on view!

The River Clyde ( Scots: Clyde Watter, or Watter o Clyde) flows into the First of Clyde. It is the ninth-longest river in the United Kingdom, and the third-longest in Scotland and runs through Glasgow. Historically, it was important to the British Empire because of its role in shipbuilding and trade. To the Romans, it was Clota, and in the early medieval Cumbric language, it was known as Clud or Clut.

Today, despite being the same road, was totally different from yesterday. The road was sufficiently far away from the A74(M) and the railway to mitigate the noise and it was refreshingly void of traffic. Even the road surface was smoother to walk on – although the uncomfortable camber on curves was still present. With the nice weather (walking north means the sun is always on our backs) and the slightly shorter day it was a much more pleasant experience overall.

Tomorrow we head to Hamilton on the outskirts of Glasgow.

We have now been walking for three weeks, with just one rest day, and looking at the map it is still amazing at just how far we have walked:

A long and noisy road

Today we left Gretna and headed for Moffatt

Today we had no-one walking with us and Jon was helping with our transport logistics.

Our hotel in Gretna was actually still in England, even if only by about 10 metres. So as soon as we left and crossed the River Sark we were officially in Scotland. The Scots defeated the English at the Battle of Sark in October 1448 in a significant victory for the Scots, who had not defeated England since the Battle of Otterburn in 1388. The river has been made famous, partially by the Robert Burns’ poem, Such a Parcel of Rogues in a Nation. We passed from Gretna through Gretna Green, with all its tourist attractions and set out on our companion for the day – the B7076

As usual, cows were curious as to what two blokes in matching t-shirts were doing and the whole herd wandered over to have a look. The B7076 starts out as a very long straight stretch that seemed to take forever to cover. We passed Robgil Tower, on the banks of the river Kirtle, one of a number of towers built along the border as protection against incursions by the British. It was owned for centuries by Clan Irvine, but a report from 1834 indicates that it was owned by James Smail by that time.

Our journey then then took us through Ecclefechan, birthplace of Thomas Carlyle. Shortly after a helicopter spent a long time hovering above us – we did hope it was Jon dropping in with our lunch but suspect it was actually just a training flight.

By now we were bored with the B7076 – very rough surface, steep cambers that seemed to go on long after the bends, not too much to see and incessant noise from the nearby motorway and the forestry lorries than enjoy a turn of speed on the road. By the time our lunch stop came along we were quite jaded, however as usual, a 10 minute rest and some food was enough to re-invigorate for the remaining piece of the journey.

On the final stretch of the day we started to see some hills and evidence of the forestry process at work and then we arrived at our stopping point for the day (and start point tomorrow) – Kirkpatrick-Juxta. The church was named in the 15th century as Kirkpatrick-Juxta to distinguish it from four other churches of St Patrick in the See of Glasgow, namely Kirkpatrick-Irongray, Kirkpatrick-Durham, Kirkpatrick-Fleming and Kirkpatrick in Nithsdale. This Kirkpatrick was styled Juxta as being the nearest of the five to Glasgow, the seat of the Bishop.

Tomorrow we head for Abington

Four elope to Gretna

Today we left Penrith and headed for Gretna

Today we had Will and Toby walking with us and David (a colleague of Mike) very kindly took our bags up to Gretna.

We left Penrith with a slight chill in the air but the promise of a nice day ahead weather wise. Penrith has been noted for its numerous wells with well-dressing ceremonies taking place on certain days in May. Three miles south-east of Penrith, on the River Eamont opposite Ninekirks are the “Giants’ Caves”, with a well dedicated to St Ninian.

After a while we passed an interesting blue plaque – Francis Percy Toplis (22 August 1896 – 6 June 1920) was a British criminal and imposter active during and after the First World War. Before the war he was imprisoned for attempted rape and during the war he served as a private in the Royal Army Medical Corps, but regularly posed as an officer while on leave, wearing a monocle. After the war he became notorious following the murder of a taxi driver and the wounding of a police officer who attempted to apprehend him. The manhunt was major news at the time. He was tracked down and killed in a gunfight with police.

We continued along the A6 – not a whole lot to see really, mainly arable land and sometimes views of the Lake District peaks in the distance although these faded as we got closer to Carlisle. The only thing of real interest was a huge machine digging up potatoes with one person driving and one on top presumably sorting through he potatoes as they were harvested. Farmers certainly have some great machinery to operate.

We walked into Carlisle via the same route we left it one year ago after our rest day. A quick stop for a coffee and to buy some lunch and we set off again. As we crossed the River Eden (with very low water levels) we passed our 500 mile / 800 km milestone.

Then it was a moderately long walk alongside the M6 where the most interesting features were a n active wind turbine, some fencing between us the the busy motorway and the crossing of the River Esk estuary. We found the Welcome to Scotland sign but our Gretna hotel is in the “no-mans land” between the welcome to England / Scotland signs. This apparently counts as England so we have to wait for tomorrow before crossing the border.

Tomorrow we continue up towards Glasgow, stopping at Moffat for the night.

Up and over Shap Fell

Today we left Kendal and headed for Penrith

Today we had no-one walking with us and Roy (a colleague of Mike’s) kindly transported our bags up to Penrith.

Kendal takes its name from the River Kent (the etymology of whose name is uncertain but thought to be Celtic) and the Old Norse word dalr (“valley”). Kendal is listed in the Domesday Book as part of Yorkshire with the name Cherchebi (from Old Norse kirkju-bý, “church-village”). For many centuries it was called Kirkby Kendal: “village with a church in the valley of the River Kent”.

The sun was still rising as we left Kendal meaning it was rather chilly with some mist still surrounding some of the local hills. We walked past the warning sign for Shap Fell – remembering the descent down last year we were not looking forward to the climb.

We took a little detour away from the A6 (more of a short-cut really) and climbed a bit higher to see some spectacular scenery. Four jet aircraft (F-35B I think) flew really low over us heading towards the Lake District peaks and valleys and returned back over us a short while later. Then we finally found a friendly cow, who didn’t run away and seemed to like having her head scratched.

Then it was time for the climb of Shap Fell. In truth it wasn’t as fearsome as expected but it was still pretty brutal going – thankfully the weather, although sunny, wasn’t too hot. Eventually we made the top, going past the memorial stone and the Bothy – converted to a camping barn from an old telephone repeater station, surrounded by moorland with no houses or neighbours for miles around.

After the summit of Shap Fell there was only one way to go and that was downhill for a few miles as we headed to the town of Shap. Here we bought our lunch and then kept heading towards Penrith while enjoying the amazing views of the Lake District peaks to our left and of the Yorkshire Dales to our right.

We sat down for lunch on the grass outside the entrance to Thrimby Farm and then picked ourselves back up for the remainder off the journey, via Clifton and Eamont Bridge. We were really in need of an ice-cream at this stage and find it very strange that most villages we have passed through have no shops (or even a post office). Anyway a petrol station on the outskirts of Penrith satisfied our need as we finally made it to our hotel for the night.

Yesterday’s rest day was welcome and needed but after 43 kms through incredible scenery the rest day is a dim and distant memory.

Tomorrow we head to Gretna (in Scotland)

A moody skies kind of day

Today we left Garstang and headed for Kendal

Today we had no-one walking with us and Steve kindly transported our bags to Kendal before heading back down south to work.

After a lift, from Garstang, back to where we finished walking last night, we started on the long slog northwards. Garstang is mentioned in the Domesday Boook as Cherestanc in 1086. The original spelling of Garstang has several interpretations: “‘gore by the boundary pole”, “spear post”, “triangular piece of land”, “common land” or “meadowland”, possibly signifying the site of a meeting-space. The skies were quite ominous and we had fingers crossed they would keep their contents to themselves.

After only a few hours we arrived in Lancaster – a quick stop to get some sandwiches for lunch and then a coffee / muffin / croissant stop and we were on our way again, through the city and then back out on the A6. Although busy the A6 had a footpath for most of our walk today.

A couple more rivers crossed and then with a view of Morecambe Bay (and our first sight of the sea since Cornwall) our 700 km milestone arrived.

Once we left the A6 we were on nice country lanes for the rest of the day, the scenery becoming much more “rolling hills” and then a flock of birds (think they were young Red Grouse) were running along the road in front of us – given the number they must have escaped from a farm somewhere. Those that could tried to fly and there were some funny crash landings. Eventually they all dispersed into the hedgerow or through gates and we walked on.

As we sat down at the roadside for lunch the 4 young cows in the field opposite were curious and wandered over to the wall and watched us eating. We do like to eat lunch with at least two thirds of our days journey done and today was no exception so only a couple of hours left until we walked into Kendal and our stop for the night. It was a lucky day for the weather as the rain that did fall always seemed to be just ahead of us.

Tomorrow is a rest day!

Planned overshoot ….

Today we left Wigan and headed to Garstang.

Today we had Harwood walking with us and Steve walking / providing logistics support.

We left Wigan quite early as today would be a long day. The name Wigan has been dated to at least the 7th century, and probably originally meant a “village” or “settlement”. Wigan was in the territory of the Brigantes, an ancient Celtic tribe that ruled much of what is now northern England. The Brigantes were subjugated in the Roman conquest of Britain and the Roman settlement of Coccium established where Wigan lies.

A fairly uneventful walk for the first part of the morning, not a whole lot of scenery to see other than the nice village of Coppull, a Christmas tree farm and the passing of our 400 mile milestone.

Meandering on we crossed the M6 and M65 (and waited at the level crossing) before heading into Preston itself and buying lunch for a bit later in the walk. The M6 was present for most of the rest of the day and won’t be too far away for a good few days yet. We then crossed the River Ribble as we continued on northwards.

Leaving Preston we stopped at a roundabout and sat down for our lunch – a few funny looks but in all probability the grass in the middle was probably a lot cleaner/safer than that on the verge! A few more streams, churches and canals before we finally glimpsed some “scenery” and made our way to Garstang. As tomorrows route was originally planned at 54 kms we decided this morning to “overshoot” Garstang by 6 kms before getting a lift back to our hotel. We will then start at that point tomorrow thus making the day a more manageable 48 km.

Tomorrow we head to Kendal and a rest day on Tuesday

Plenty of canals and rivers

Today we left Northwich and headed to Wigan

Today was a much smaller group – we had Caroline walking with us for her second day and Steve providing the logistics support.

We left Northwich, on what was to be a manly urban road day, down tree lined roads. During Roman times, Northwich was known as Condate, thought to be a Latinisation of a Brittonic name meaning “Confluence” as it lies at the junction of the rivers Dane and Weaver.

Most of our day would be spent on the A49 but now it was not as fearsome due to pavement running along side it all the way up to Wigan. Not a whole lot to see – lots of farmland, some very small villages and a field full of black sheep (don’t know what breed)

We then passed into Stretton and diverted down a path away from the Path for a while. Some interesting statues at the start of the park and kids playing 11 a-side football were something different to see.

After passing over the Bridgewater Canal in Stockton Heath we then crossed the Manchester Ship Canal, a 36-mile-long (58 km) inland waterway in the North West of England linking Manchester to the Irish Sea with several sets of locks lifting vessels about 60 feet (18 m) to the canal’s terminus in Manchester.

Going through Warrington via crossing the River Mersey, we picked up some lunch for later consumption and passed out 600 km milestone.

An ice cream stop on the way into Wigan, more brooks and canals crossed and a lot more walking through built up areas (something different to look at) and we arrived at our stop for the night in Wigan.

Tomorrow we head to Garstang in Lancaster

After day 15 we are still not yet halfway but have come a long long way.

Friends reunited ….

Today we left Whitchurch and headed to Northwich in Cheshire

Today we had Caroline, Chris T, Pat, Stuart, Helena, Yasemin, Priyanka, Ryan, Matt R, Chris M, Matt J and Simon walking with us with Greg and Nick providing all the logistics.

We left Whitchurch to a smattering of rain – enough for everyone to break out the coats and hats – thankfully it didn’t amount to much and didn’t put in an appearance again. Whitchurch was previously Mediolanum, a fort and small town in the Roman province of Britannia. It is also the oldest continuously inhabited town in Shropshire. Sir Henry Percy (Sir Harry Hotspur) (1364–1403), was killed at the Battle of Shrewsbury and buried in Whitchurch, only for his body to be later exhumed and quartered.

We briefly stopped in Nantwich to pick up sandwiches for lunch and headed back out on the road to Northwich. What was meant to be relatively quiet B roads were actually quite busy but the team coped well with the oncoming traffic. We passed over several sections of he Shropshire Union Canal – Llangollen Branch as well as passing the usual number of quaint / beautiful houses.

Passing briefly through Church Minishull we had an ice cream stop – probably cleaned the shop out of its weekly supply of Magnums! More pretty houses and immaculate gardens before we crossed the border into Cheshire.

We passed the Winsford Rock Salt mine – the U.K.’s largest and oldest working mine. It lies approximately 150 meters under the Cheshire countryside and has a rich history, which began in 1844 when local prospectors were searching for coal. More than a century of mining has left a void under the countryside that features consistent temperature and humidity levels, and is naturally free from the dangers of ultraviolet light, vermin or flooding. It is the size of 700 football pitches and continues to grow as a salt is mined every year.

We left the road shortly after to start the last few kms of our walk along the River Weaver footpath.

We continued along the footpath, came to the Vale Royal Locks, crossed over and encountered a very overgrown, and sometimes muddy, path that would take us back to the road and onto our hotel. The River Weaver section was a really nice change from the consistent road pounding of the day.

An amazing effort from everyone again – having a group of 14 walking along the roads in such a disciplined manner was a pleasure to see. It was (as per yesterday) rewarding watching friends and colleagues catch up personally after nearly 18 months apart. Greg (and Nick) did his usual sterling job of providing baggage services and roadside snacks and drinks at regular intervals.

Hard to believe that Paul and I have now walked for two weeks without a rest day (and it feels like it) but the rest day is coming ever closer!

Tomorrow we head to Wigan.